ASCP Skin Deep


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30 january/february 2016 expertadvice INGREDIENTS Deliver the Goods Active ingredients can't do their jobs without proper cosmetic delivery systems by Susanne Schmaling One of the most common questions I receive is, "What is the best way to choose a product line for my business?" It can be a complicated and expensive process, especially when faced with the hundreds of product lines available in our professional market. This new column will address specific areas of cosmetic chemistry, along with questions you should ask when choosing a product line. You will also see definitions the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) may use when looking at the difference between a cosmetic and a drug. We'll begin with delivery systems; this is the part of the formulation that makes the difference for a results-oriented product. WHAT ARE THEY? A cosmetic delivery system is designed to create a desired result within the skin by delivering active ingredients to a specific biological target. This can be anything from enhancing cell communication to direct delivery into a layer of skin. There are additional benefits of delivery systems beyond getting the ingredients past the stratum corneum; some delivery systems will help protect antioxidants from oxidation and discoloration. Since there is an extensive number of proprietary systems, and each works differently within a formulation, it is important to understand the overall concept of delivery systems before getting technical with your manufacturer. The best way to look at delivery systems is to identify the difference between the two categories: vehicles and encapsulation. Vehicles A vehicle is the formulation of the product that contains active ingredients. Some common vehicles are solutions, emulsions, gels, hydrolipid dispersions, and suspensions. These formulas can improve the skin as a whole or deliver actives that dissolve into the stratum corneum when applied to the skin.

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