ASCP Skin Deep

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016

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www.ascpskincare.com 27 expertadvice SKIN SOLUTIONS Teenage Angst Understanding adolescents—and their skin care needs— can lead to happy, lifelong clients by Mark Lees Q: I recently had a mother schedule an appointment for her 15-year-old daughter, who has very oily skin with lots of comedones and pore impactions, as well as chronic breakouts of pimples. What is the best treatment plan for acne-prone skin at this age? A: The most important factor in helping teenage clients with acne is making sure they are using a proper home-care program. At age 15, this will include: • A rinseable facial wash designed for oilier skin. Usually in gel form, these cleansers traditionally have salicylic acid (1–2 percent) or benzoyl peroxide (2.5 percent) included. • A toner that has an alpha and/or beta hydroxy acid to apply after cleansing. • A gel acne treatment with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid to be lightly applied all over the face to help loosen impactions and prevent new microcomedones from forming in the follicles. Eye areas should be avoided. This should be used at night and can be added in the morning as well, if necessary, and if the skin can tolerate it. The gel should be applied in five or six small dots across the face and then spread in small circular motions until absorbed. The product should absorb very quickly; if not, the client is using too much product. Individual lesions can be treated after the initial application to the entire face. • A noncomedogenic matte (non-oily) sunscreen to be worn daily. • A noncomedogenic lightweight hydrator if the skin feels or appears dehydrated. The teenage client should be carefully instructed how to use each product. Explain the benefits of the regimen so the client gets excited about the end result and understands the importance of home care. It is best if young clients actually use each product while they're with you so they fully understand the procedure, then write down exactly what they should do for morning and evening home care routines. Finally, explain the 70/30 rule: 70 percent of results come from home care; 30 percent from professional treatments. Q: What about facial treatments for these teenagers? A: Deep-cleansing facial treatments with desincrustation and extraction are great for helping this age group with acne-prone skin, but ideally they should have the first one after using the above regimen for about

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