Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/581665
beyond the basics A Clean Slate How Exfoliation Improves Barrier Function by Mark Lees Dead skin cells can build up on the skin surface, thickening its appearance. This buildup can make wrinkles and imperfections look much worse, and can cause the skin to have a hard look. As cells accumulate on the sides of wrinkles or depressed scars, those areas can look deeper than they really are. In the basal layer of the skin, cells may be "injected" with melanin by the melanocytes. If uniform, this will appear as a tan on the skin surface. However, if the skin has cumulative sun damage or the melanocytes are stimulated by hormones, such as in the case of melasma, these pigment-containing cells will often be present in clumps or patches. This will make the skin look muddy or splotchy. The groups of stained cells may appear as age-related freckles, hyperpigmented splotches, or in the form of a pregnancy mask in the case of melasma. Keratin, which has a grayish color, fi lls these dead cells in the corneum. When the cells pile up on the surface, this can give skin a dull color. Why Exfoliation Works Exfoliation in the salon and at home can help all of these conditions. By removing these piles of cells, the skin will appear smoother and wrinkles or depressed scars will appear shallower. Corneum cells containing melanin will be removed, making the skin color look more even, and reducing the appearance of dark spots and pigment-related splotchiness. Physiologically, removing dead cells from the surface stimulates the natural cell renewal process, revealing younger, plumper cells, and improving the skin's barrier function by increasing the production of intercellular lipids. As the barrier function improves, the skin moisture content improves, making the skin look even smoother and fi rmer. Better barrier function also helps diminish redness. Got a skin question for Mark Lees? Send it to editor@ascpskincare.com! In the last issue, we discussed the epidermal barrier function and its vital importance in the skin's health and appearance. Now let's talk about how to improve it. Exfoliation can be benefi cial for many skin conditions, but overuse of exfoliation treatments and products can cause irritation and actually worsen conditions. Create your free business website! www.ascpskincare.com 7