Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1489006
New member benefit! Get the ASCP SkinPro app at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 33 SKIN PHYSIOLOGY Over-the-Counter Treatments While not as potent as prescription-strength skin lighteners, melasma clients looking for over- the-counter alternatives will nd a variety of products containing ingredients for addressing hyperpigmentation. These ingredients include: • Arbutin • Azelaic acid • Kojic acid • Licorice extract (glabridin) • Vitamins C, E, and B3 (niacin) Although easier to obtain than prescription medications, these over-the-counter skin lighteners are much less e ective. The best over-the-counter strategy for eliminating dark spots is exfoliation. Because melanin accumulates in the stratum corneum, enhancing the degradation and shedding of surface cells (corneocytes) through exfoliation can provide skin-lightening bene ts. Chemical peels can produce rapid and noticeable depigmentation, whether you're using AHAs (such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid), BHAs (like salicylic acid), retinoids, trichloroacetic acid, or phenol. Lasers and microdermabrasion can also exfoliate and target excess melanin, although these procedures tend to be more complicated. Keep in mind that because in ammation is associated with exfoliation, these strategies can sometimes induce hyperpigmentation in susceptible clients. Nutritionally, because the formation of pigment at least partially involves diet and de ciencies, choosing foods carefully and using nutritional supplements can provide some relief for melasma clients. Red, orange, blue, and green pigment-containing fruits and vegetables can provide sun protection support and help inhibit skin darkening. Omega 3 fatty acids found in ax, hemp seeds, and fatty sh can contribute anti- in ammatory bene ts. Antioxidants like vitamins C and E, selenium, and zinc can also help. MELASMA PREVENTION Working on thyroid health is advisable for melasma clients. Although supporting this important gland may not alleviate hyperpigmentation on its own, thyroid-strengthening protocols can be supportive of other anti-melasma strategies, as well as overall health. The use of supplemental iodine is advisable, as is vitamin B12, copper, zinc, and selenium. Foods that can potentially suppress thyroid functioning, including soy, millet, and raw cruciferous veggies (e.g., spinach, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauli ower), should be avoided. And, because of the relationship of intestinal health to autoimmunity, as well as a well-functioning thyroid, using the aforementioned digestive support supplements is recommended. Finally, while exposure to the sun is not the direct cause of melasma, it can increase the activity of melanocytes and melanin and trigger an in ammatory response that can exacerbate the condition. Thus, the importance of being careful with solar exposure, avoiding sunburns, and using UV-blocking ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Ingestion of sun-protective nutrients like N-acetyl cysteine, taurine, and vitamin C, and plant nutrients like carotenoids, avonoids, and sterols found in fruits, vegetables, and dietary supplements, should also be considered as part of an e ective anti- hyperpigmentation protocol. Notes 1. Zion Market Research Report, "Pigmentation Disorder Treatment Market–Global Industry Analysis," April 7, 2022, www.zionmarketresearch. com/report/hypopigmentation-disorder-treatment-market. 2. Rashmi Sarkar et al., "Melatonin and Oxidative Stress in Melasma–An Unexplored Territory; A Prospective Study," International Journal of Dermatology 59, no. 5 (May 2020): 572–5, https://doi.org/10.1111/ijd.14827. Want to learn more about treating melasma? Scan to listen to episode 145 of the ASCP Esty Talk Podcast.