ASCP Skin Deep

SUMMER 2022

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New member benefit! Get the ASCP SkinPro app at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 85 ACNE IS A HEREDITARY DISORDER of the pores, meaning acne is not a result of someone's lifestyle, hygiene, or anything else typically attributed to acne. Pores that are not acne-prone will shed one layer of dead skin cells per day, and the body can keep up with this desquamation without issue. Acne-prone pores shed up to five layers of dead skin cells per day, which the body cannot keep up with. As a result, microcomedones, the beginning of all acne lesions, begin to form. From here, open and closed comedones appear on the skin; if P. acnes bacteria are present within the pore, comedones become inflamed. PROFESSIONAL SUPPORT In Face Reality's National Survey on Acne (from which we collected over 1,000 responses), we found that 91 percent of people try over-the- counter skin care products from places like Ulta and Target; only 7 percent of those people found that to be a solution. Between 62 and 69 percent start with prescription topical and/or oral medications. Again, success rates are low for these options as well, with only 11–22 percent getting results. Those who sought out the help of an esthetician saw significantly better success—up to 54 percent when respondents followed a skin care routine curated by their esthetician. The benefits of working with a licensed esthetician who has received dedicated acne training include a partner who can guide acne clients through lifestyle changes, topical skin care solutions, and professional treatments. TOPICAL SOLUTIONS Not all skin care is created equal, especially when it comes to a skin condition as specific as acne. Many amazing ingredients for antiaging or non- acne-prone clients need to be removed completely from an acne client's regimen. Ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, and seaweed are all pore- clogging ingredients that can cause breakouts for acne-prone individuals. Chemical exfoliants are extremely helpful and can be chosen based on acne type, severity, and skin type. Some popular options include l-mandelic acid and salicylic acid. L-mandelic acid has been gaining attention due to its broad array of benefits; it is anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antibacterial, exfoliating, and brightening. It is also a great option for clients with a Fitzpatrick rating of 4+. LIFESTYLE MANAGEMENT There are lifestyle factors that clients will need to be educated on, many of which they would not have considered otherwise. These include, but are not limited to, diet, laundry products, and post-workout habits. Diet is an extremely important factor for those experiencing acne, as there are many foods high in iodides and androgen hormones that can lead to increased oil production and inflammation in the body, which can cause an increase in breakouts. IN THE TREATMENT ROOM Professional treatments such as corrective peels and enzyme treatments are extremely beneficial for acne clients. In addition to correcting tone, texture, and healing acne lesions, the treatment will prep the skin for extractions. For new acne clients, it is helpful to perform corrective treatments biweekly. Once their acne is under control, those can be pushed out every 4–6 weeks as maintenance services. The benefits of working with a licensed esthetician who has received dedicated acne training include a partner who can guide acne clients through lifestyle changes, topical skin care solutions, and professional treatments.

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