ASCP Skin Deep

SPRING 2022

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42 ASCP Skin Deep Spring 2022 GREEN So, what do clean and green have in common? As green is not a regulated term either, green beauty can have several inferences, but the top three include histological, moral, and environmental superiority. Just like food trends, the growth of naturally derived, plant-based ingredients in beauty products paralleled the organic and local food movements. Analogous terms like natural and organic on product packaging and marketing campaigns were soon joined by cruelty-free and vegan as consumer perception adapted. There are no real governmental standards to be met with these unregulated terms either, and this lack of clarity results in consumer confusion, with the public asking, "Is this really what is best for me or simply clever marketing?" Going green in our industry also implies being environmentally friendly, conscientious, and aware. This parallels an increased global concern for the size of our collective carbon footprint. The term sustainable also recently entered the beauty industry vernacular in relation to not just packaging but also ingredient sourcing and its eff ects on the environment. SUSTAINABLE Sustainable packaging is a complicated subject for the skin care industry because packaging can have a potential infl uence on product integrity. The wrong kind of packaging can change the chemistry of a formulation, which can result in a clean and eff ective product becoming altogether ineff ective or potentially toxic, depending on the ingredient composition. Current sustainable options that protect product formulation integrity are also quite expensive and would change the cost of goods signifi cantly, resulting in higher costs for the consumer. Another consideration that is not addressed enough is the high environmental cost of producing some of these sustainable options. There is progress, however, and the packaging industry is working to off er more eff ective, protective, aff ordable, and truly sustainable options in the near future. Sustainable ingredients are extremely important, and this is where clean and green defi nitions diff er slightly. Where green implies only using natural or organic, clean means using nontoxic, safe, bioengineered ingredients (typically derived from nature—think mandelic acid or plant stem cells). Considerations for what goes in our skin care products should begin with where they come from, but also take into account their eff ect on the skin. After all, poison ivy is natural, but not necessarily clean. With an understanding of the (loose) defi nitions of clean and green and the industry-specifi c application of sustainability, looking beyond the label and marketing will give insight into whether a product or line is truly aligning with these practices and what their sustainability program is. The most important factor, as both professional practitioners and consumers, is to partner with and support brands that are completely transparent—brands that can be trusted. Clean beauty is not a regulated term that requires adherence to a specific set of rules determined by a regulatory agency, but rather a set of principles and ideals. INGREDIENT DECK

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