Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1441323
New member benefit! Get the ASCP SkinPro App at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 65 MELANIN IS AN AMINO ACID responsible for determining skin and hair color. It protects skin from actual or perceived assaults, working as a reactive oxygen species scavenger against oxidative stress, which can be caused by UV light and/or environmental exposure. Our body innately produces melanin, which acts as an antioxidant protectant; think of it as your own natural SPF. Hyperpigmentation—a condition in which patches of skin become darker in color than the normal surrounding skin—is caused by an overproduction of melanin in the skin. THE FUNCTION OF MELANIN IN SKIN To understand and manage hyperpigmentation eff ectively, we must travel into the skin to know where melanin is created and how it functions. Melanin production, or melanogenesis, begins in the melanocyte, which resides in the stratum germinativum along the epidermal/dermal junction in our skin. Melanocytes produce organelles called melanosomes. Skin with more concentrated pigment has larger melanosome granules, causing darker skin tones. Melanosomes are primarily distributed into keratinocytes through phagocytosis. Once the keratinocytes become fl ooded with melanosomes, our skin is pigmented. The concentration of melanin determines how dark the color is on the skin surface. Genetics are the primary indication of melanin levels and the size of melanosomes produced. External and internal factors impact melanin production and often infl uence misfunction. Infl ammation is the primary cause of misfunction in the melanocyte and can be triggered by sun exposure, hormonal imbalances, heat and extreme weather, manual manipulation, and trauma to the skin. When melanin production malfunctions, becoming sporadic or hyperactive, this initiates hyperpigmentation. Melanin management is the key to unlocking skin correction for brighter, healthier skin. This is where suppressing or inhibiting specifi c activities in the melanosome distribution is addressed for all skin correction, including hyperpigmentation. Just like any biological management, it must be addressed daily—like dental hygiene and brushing your teeth. The most eff ective management of hyperpigmentation is a combination of daily home care, weekly home treatments, and monthly in- clinic treatments. MANAGING HYPERPIGMENTATION Every client needs to have realistic expectations for both skin correction and maintenance. As a skin care professional, it's your responsibility to establish a solid foundation of both home care and treatment goals. Daily Home Care A daily home care program should address not only skin correction, but also maintenance and prevention. Make sure your recommended daily regimen contains brightening agents from start to fi nish. Industry-standard tyrosinase inhibitors such as hexylresorcinol, arbutin, mulberry, licorice, kojic, and azelaic acids should be incorporated into multiple products, not just one serum. Minimum broad- spectrum SPF 30 is a must-have application every morning, regardless of sun exposure. Weekly Home Treatments Professionally guided weekly home treatments will maintain in-clinic correction while conditioning the skin for future treatments. Infl ammation must be minimized by using active agents such as polyhydroxy acid blends, retinol, and salicylic acid. The myristoyl peptide family aids in controlling infl ammation while topical probiotics contribute to a healthier microbiome. A healthy, active stratum corneum invites healthy melanocyte activity, preventing future hyperpigmentation. MONTHLY IN-CLINIC TREATMENTS Ideally, clients should be habitual in scheduling monthly in-clinic appointments. During each appointment, skin should be reevaluated for what it needs. In-clinic treatments are then customized, addressing the client's primary skin concerns as well as underlying co-issues to optimize results. Take into consideration the client's lifestyle and skin commitment level when personalizing their skin service. Incorporate progressive resurfacing agents for the most eff ective hyperpigmentation treatments. Use proven brightening actives such as lactic acid, retinol, and salicylic acid. Blended resurfacing solutions combined with restoring plant stem cells, brightening botanicals, and tightening peptide technology control infl ammation and topical irritation, limiting the potential for post- infl ammatory hyperpigmentation. All skin types and conditions can then experience skin correction when infl ammation is limited in every treatment step. Clients should see and feel a diff erence in their skin. New member benefit! Get the ASCP SkinPro App at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 65