ASCP Skin Deep

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2021

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Listen to the ASCP Esty Talk podcast at ascpskincare.com/podcasts 31 COLD WEATHER SKIN CONDITIONS Cold temperature and dry air can wreak havoc on healthy skin. Following are some of the culprits your clients may ask you to help them battle during the winter months. Eczema/Xerosis The skin may be cracked, crusted, dry, flaking, itchy, red, and/or scaly. Eczema is a chronic skin inflammation, while xerosis is extreme skin dryness with numerous possible causes. Both are worsened by cold, dry weather. Psoriasis Psoriasis is a skin disease that causes red, itchy scaly patches most commonly on the knees, elbows, trunk, and scalp. This condition happens when skin cells are overproduced, forming scaly patches and cracked skin. Rosacea Rosacea flare-ups can be caused by emotional changes such as depression, seasonal affective disorder (SAD), and stress—all common this time of year. Though there's no way to eliminate rosacea, effective treatment can relieve the symptoms. Most often, this requires a combination of lifestyle change and prescription medication. Seborrheic Dermatitis Symptoms of this condition include itchy, flaky, peeling skin, and severe dandruff. It worsens in the low humidity of winter and has a cumulative effect as the increased shedding of skin cells results in even more water loss. Medicated lotions and shampoos are mainstays of treatment. INGREDIENTS FOR HYDRATING DRY WINTER SKIN Winter doesn't have to be a prescription for dry skin. The following hydrating ingredients will help keep your clients' skin in tip-top shape. clark van der beken/unsplash SKIN PHYSIOLOGY Glycerin Glycerin, also called glycerine or glycerol, is a humectant—an ingredient that actively draws moisture from the air and then binds it to the skin. It's a sugar alcohol that is also used in foods as a sweetener or thickener. Skin care products that contain glycerin will be goopier and heavier than those that don't. Give the skin a couple of weeks to get used to the consistency and the heaviness will soon be unnoticeable. Hyaluronic Acid If you prefer gentle, natural ingredients, don't be frightened by the "acid" part. Hyaluronic acid is found naturally in the skin and in the synovial fluid that surrounds our joints. It is a great plumper, capable of holding up to 1,000 times its own weight in water. The amount our bodies produce declines with age, so topical products with this ingredient can have a great effect on aging skin. Shea Butter Shea butter is fat that's extracted from the nuts of the shea tree. Naturally rich in vitamins A, E, and F, this natural nut oil moisturizes, revitalizes, and softens skin. Its high concentration of vitamins and fatty acids—combined with its spreadable consistency—makes it a great product for smoothing, soothing, and conditioning the skin. Sodium PCA Sodium pyroglutamic acid, usually called sodium PCA, is derived from the amino acid proline. It can also bind moisture to cells and hold several times its weight in water. It delivers moisture to the hair and skin and is often seen as an emollient or humectant in hair conditioners and moisturizers. nataliya melnychuk/unsplash

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