ASCP Skin Deep

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2021

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38 ASCP Skin Deep September/October 2021 ginger a choice ingredient for brightening formulations. 4 Gingerol is also an effective pain-relieving compound and will reduce inflammation in irritated skin. Ginger is excellent for all skin types and conditions and is especially effective in evening skin pigment. CLOVE Clove, Eugenia caryophyllata, is the reddish- brown flower bud of a tropical evergreen tree from the Myrtaceae (myrtle) family. It is proven to have antimicrobial, antifungal, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. Encouraging skin benefits include its influence on tissue health and production and tissue remodeling activity in human dermal fibroblasts, 5 and its ability to fight against P-bacteria in acne. 6 Clove oil can be irritating, so the proper dilution is key to efficacy. In addition to skin benefits, it can also fight yeast infections, hair loss, and dandruff, and its analgesic properties make it a homeopathic remedy for temporary dental pain. ALLSPICE Allspice comes from the dried berries of the Pimenta dioica, an evergreen shrub. They are picked when they are ripe and then dried in the sun until they turn brown and resemble peppercorn kernels. Allspice is full of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals—specifically, copper. Copper from allspice acts not only as a powerful antioxidant, but also as an important coenzyme in the production of collagen. 7 In addition to skin benefits, allspice is great for improving and maintaining cognitive function (vitamins A and B9), for treating arthritis, and as a perfume. Erring on the side of caution, it is contraindicated for pregnant or lactating women, not for any evidentiary reason, but for lack of scientific evidence of safety. KEEP IT PROFESSIONAL The powerful ingredients that make up our favorite fall beacon are also incredibly beneficial to skin. But before you rush out to buy pumpkin spice—or each individual spice—to mix into your favorite moisturizer, know that the ingredients mentioned here should be included in an intentionally formulated product with specific concentrations and dilutions. Too much can have adverse effects, and may not prove effective in DIY concoctions. Notes 1. Maedeh Ghovvati et al., "Efficacy of Topical Cinnamon Gel for the Treatment of Facial Acne Vulgaris: A Preliminary Study," Biomedical Research and Therapy 6, no. 1 (January 2019): 2,958–65, https://doi.org/10.15419/ bmrat.v6i1.515; Ivana Binic et al., "Skin Ageing: Natural Weapons and Strategies," Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine 2013, no. 827248 (January 2013): 1–10, https://doi.org/10.1155/2013/827248. 2. Maedeh Ghovvati et al., "Efficacy of Topical Cinnamon Gel for the Treatment of Facial Acne Vulgaris: A Preliminary Study." 3. Kyung-Eun Lee et al., "Effects of Macelignan Isolated from Myristica fragrans (Nutmeg) on Expression of Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 and Type I Procollagen in UVB-Irradiated Human Skin Fibroblasts," Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin 35, no. 10 (October 2012): 1,669–75, https://doi.org/10.1248/bpb.b12-00037. 4. Ivana Binic et al., "Skin Ageing: Natural Weapons and Strategies." 5. Xuesheng Han and Tory L. Parker, "Anti-Inflammatory Activity of Clove (Eugenia caryophyllata) Essential Oil in Human Dermal Fibroblasts," Pharmaceutical Biology 55, no. 1 (April 2017): 1,619–22, https://doi.org/10.1080/ 13880209.2017.1314513. 6. YuJie Fu et al., "The Antibacterial Activity of Clove Essential Oil Against Propionibacterium acnes and Its Mechanism of Action," Archives of Dermatology 145, no. 1 (January 2009): 86–88, https://doi.org/10.1001/archdermatol.2008.549. 7. Gadi Borkow, "Using Copper to Improve the Well-Being of the Skin," Current Chemical Biology 8, no. 2 (August 2014): 89–102, https://doi.org/10.2174/2212796809666150227223857. INGREDIENTS The powerful ingredients that make up our favorite fall beacon are also incredibly beneficial to skin.

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