Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1403510
Listen to the ASCP Esty Talk podcast at ascpskincare.com/podcasts 35 • Jojoba Oil: The only botanical source of liquid wax esters, jojoba oil is extremely similar to the wax esters that make up approximately 20 percent of the skin's own sebum. It is an excellent dry-feeling emollient with good skin penetration ability. • L-Ascorbic Acid: This water-soluble form of vitamin C is an antioxidant that assists in the production of collagen. It is also used as a skin brightener. • Lactic Acid: This alpha hydroxy acid improves skin texture and hydration through exfoliation. It is also used in anti-wrinkle products since it stimulates collagen production. • Retinol: This form of vitamin A has the ability to prevent fine lines and wrinkles. It is effective against free radicals and is essential in many biochemical reactions within the cell, making it a helpful ingredient in antiaging and protective products. • Retinaldehyde: This is a stable and nonirritating form of vitamin A. Retinaldehyde is used in topical antiaging products to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. It also promotes a general smoothness and evenness to the skin. Use at night for overall skin health and vibrancy. • Shea Butter: This botanical emollient is excellent for skin hydration. It is also a good source of essential fatty acids, which help maintain the skin's acid mantle and support skin elasticity and flexibility. • Tocopheryl Acetate: This natural form of stable vitamin E is a potent oil-soluble antioxidant, which is reactivated by vitamin C. Typical Protocol Example 1. Cleanse twice. 2. Place an appropriate fruit acid enzyme in a dish. Boost it with a ½ teaspoon of an appropriate chemical peel. Use lactic or mandelic acid for dry, mature, pigmented skin; glycolic acid for keratinized skin; and salicylic for oily skin. Advise your client that you are adding a peel boost to their treatment, and their skin may be flaky for three to four days. The overall effect is a "power facial." 3. Provide a light mechanical exfoliation treatment. Omit if skin is sensitive. 4. Perform extractions. 5. Apply treatment serum either before or after the nourishing mask. 6. Apply a treatment/nourishing mask. 7. Apply moisturizer and SPF. • Ubiquinone (CoQ10): Ubiquinone has exceptional antioxidant properties, and improves both the rate and efficiency of energy production in the skin cells. It is a vitamin-like substance with efficacy similar to that of vitamin E. It can increase tissue oxygenation, counteract free radical damage, and combat wrinkle formation. Skin care products that contain an active level of CoQ10 will have a slight yellow or light orange tint. No matter what skin care line you use, stay focused on your ingredient knowledge when choosing a product. Ingredients that are inappropriate for client goals will be ineffective at best and can make the skin worse, no matter how good they are for another purpose. TREATING THE TOP 3 When treating the top three, without causing trauma or downtime, consider going back to the basics. Layer and customize a series of treatments that incorporate an enzyme, light chemical peel, and/or mechanical exfoliation. One protocol can be applied to 20 different clients and produce 20 different results, so we recommend customizing treatments for your clients. Aside from pigmentation, many clients have various levels of acne or want to address aging concerns. For most clients, we suggest recommending a series of six treatments, spaced one to two weeks apart for best results. When you perform a thorough skin analysis, choose the correct enzyme and peel, and tie in the ingredient deck for each client, you achieve the best results to address each of your client's concerns.