ASCP Skin Deep

MAY | JUNE 2021

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IF YOU SEE CONSIDERATIONS INGREDIENTS TO TALK ABOUT Dry skin and/or texture issues The keratinocyte life cycle, progressive exfoliation, increasing hydration, and work/play lifestyle. Glycolic Acid: An antiaging acid that weakens desmosomes Hyaluronic Acid: Supports hydration Lactic Acid: A hydrating acid that lightens pigmentation Retinol: Increases cell turnover Scrubs: Promotes exfoliation SPF: Limits UV damage Oily skin Is acne present? Does oil drive the acne? Promote proper exfoliation and recommend proper products. Educate clients to not totally dry out their skin. Discuss work/play lifestyle. Charcoal: Absorbs oil Kaolin Clay: Absorbs oil Matti ers: Absorbs oil Retinol: Increases cell turnover Salicylic Acid: A drying exfoliant SPF: Limits UV damage Sensitive skin Consider the underlying vascularity of the skin, the lower Fitzpatrick type, and what triggers the redness. Ask about allergies. Nurture and fortify the acid mantle. Consider work/play lifestyle. Aloe: Soothes and calms Alpha Lipoic Acid: Multifunctional antioxidant Beta-Carotene: Increases cell turnover; safe for pregnancy Ceramides: Lipids that condition the acid mantle SPF: Limits UV damage Vitamin C: Supports vascular skin Unwanted pigmentation The keratinocyte life cycle, progressive exfoliation, increasing hydration, and work/play lifestyle. Arbutin: Lightens skin Glycolic Acid: An antiaging acid that weakens desmosome Kojic Acid: Lightens skin Lactic Acid: A hydrating acid that lightens pigmentation Retinol: Increases cell turnover SPF: Limits UV damage Trichloroacetic Acid: Treats texture issues, hyperpigmentation, and hormonal acne Listen to the ASCP Esty Talk podcast at ascpskincare.com/podcasts 29 When you perform a skin analysis, draw on your knowledge of histology. Keep in mind there are many pieces of the puzzle to consider: work/play lifestyle, diet, stress levels, and current product use, among others. / SKIN PHYSIOLOGY

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