Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/135308
Synthetic fragrance may be described on a label as "aroma oil," "aromatic oil," "fragrance oil," or "perfume oil." These are all blended synthetic aromas that are diluted with mineral oil, propylene glycol, or vegetable oil and may also contain phthalates and other potentially toxic ingredients. Synthetics are much cheaper than essential oils, and their scent is much stronger. When you walk past a candle store and can smell the candles from outside, that is synthetic fragrance. There are a number of plants that cannot be used to produce essential oils: some examples are gardenia, lilac, and lily of the valley. So-called essential oils marketed under these names are always synthetic. Unwarranted claims Some distributors make the claim that their essential oils deliver nutrients to the body. This is one thing essential oils simply cannot do. Robert Tisserand, one of the most respected aromatherapists and author of The Art of Aromatherapy (Healing Arts Press, 1978), the first English-language book on the topic, says, "What nutrients? Essential oils do not contain nutrients. They contain no vitamins, minerals, proteins, amino acids, carbohydrates, or any other type of nutrient." Claims that essential oils can cure disease—even cancer—are also unsubstantiated by science, and you should be wary of any distributors willing to make such claims about their products. Grading Guile Although essential oils do have therapeutic value, there are no regulatory standards for their production and no official grades of oil are assigned or recognized by any organization. Manufacturers and distributors who claim their oils are "therapeutic grade" are using this as a marketing term only, and it is meaningless as an indicator of the oil's quality. do a proper client intake with health history. Like anything else that can be applied to the body, essential oils can potentially cause harm. Remember, "natural" does not automatically mean a product is gentle or safe. There are oils that must not be used on a client with high blood pressure and oils that interact with certain medications. Some oils can be dangerous if a client is pregnant or nursing. And some essential oils, such as wintergreen, can even be lethal if ingested. Citrus oils are good examples of how a wonderful oil can be harmful if used incorrectly. These oils have antiseptic properties and blend well with other products, but some citrus oils cause photosensitivity, and clients should avoid direct sunlight for 12–72 hours after exposure. In addition, because citrus essential oils are created with the cold-pressed method, there will be traces of pesticide in the oil unless you are careful to buy organic. And finally, whether citrus oil is organic or not, it can be irritating to the skin. For this reason, it's best to add citrus oils only to products that will be washed off, such as cleansers, not to a moisturizer or any other product intended to remain on the skin. One of the most common and dangerous misconceptions is that essential oils can be used neat (undiluted and applied directly to the skin) in skin care. I cannot emphasize enough that this is strongly discouraged by leading aromatherapists and all reputable manufacturers and distributors. No essential oil should ever be applied neat in skin care—not tea tree, not lavender, not any other kind of essential oil. When an essential oil is applied neat, some people will have an immediate or delayed reaction, which can range from burning, irritation, or swelling to very major and serious health consequences. Other people will be unaffected—at first. Since the oil seems safe, they continue to use it. Over time, this causes the skin to become sensitized to that essential oil and the plant it comes from, with a longer-term, cumulative effect. When that happens, not only will the client be unable to use that oil again, they may not be able to use other products or foods that are related to it. Correct use of essential oils for topical application always requires dilution, usually at a strength of 6–15 drops of essential oil per ounce of whatever product it is being added to. With the right knowledge and precautions, you can safely incorporate essential oils into your services. Take classes, pick up some books that discuss each oil and its properties, and spend time researching the benefits and contraindications of the plants involved. You and your clients will soon be enjoying the sweet smell of successful aromatherapy. Shelley Birnbaum is a master esthetician who has been practicing for more than 22 years, focusing on natural health through aromatherapy and herbology. Her Baltimore skin care studio was the first in that city to use only organic products in an eco-friendly environment. Visit www.reneworganicskincare.com for more information. Consider Safety First If you intend to use essential oils in your practice, it is vitally important to think of them like any other product: get proper training in their use, thoroughly research contraindications and interactions, and SkinDeep_JA_2013.indd 21 5/17/13 2:20 PM