Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1337092
38 ASCP Skin Deep March/April 2021 Unlike retinoids, bakuchiol does not irritate or cause over dryness, so there are no sensitizing consequences that even the healthiest skin may experience. Bakuchiol also works to slow the degradation of collagen by reducing collagenase (the enzyme that breaks down collagen), increases the extracellular matrix proteins, and encourages natural collagen production. From acne scars to crow's feet, bakuchiol is a smart ingredient to use when looking to correct skin texture. As a powerful antioxidant, bakuchiol corrects previous skin destruction while also preventing and protecting from future damage. But cell turnover is not the only beneŽ t of this super ingredient. Another bonus of bakuchiol is its relationship with the sun. In contrast to retinoids, bakuchiol does not create photosensitivity. It's also photostable, so it will not break down under UV in† uence. ACNE AND SENSITIVITY From teenagers to those † irting with menopause, bakuchiol could be the answer for clients su‹ ering with hormonal acne. The three main targets when battling acne breakouts are increasing cell turnover to prevent keratinocyte buildup, balancing oil production and overpopulation of bacteria, and calming in† ammation. Bakuchiol is the perfect arrow to hit each of these issues. First and foremost (and a most-often skipped step with traditional acne-Ž ghting ingredients) acne-a‹ ected skin needs an anti-in† ammatory, like bakuchiol. Next, or simultaneously, bakuchiol downregulates 5-alpha reductase and prevents an overproduction of sebum, while also acting as an antibacterial to squash acne eruption opportunity. 2 PIGMENT AND SENSITIVITY For pesky pigments, bakuchiol inhibits the e‹ ects of the melanocyte-stimulating hormone while also inhibiting tyrosinase, eliminating and correcting uneven pigment production, and providing bright, even skin tone. Whether pigment overproduction is caused by the sun or by trauma (acne is a huge culprit), bakuchiol helps calm, soothe, and restore balance in melanin production. 3 EVEN MORE BENEFITS Because bakuchiol "plays well" with many other ingredients, it allows some freedom in formulation. By not presenting pH or delivery ingredient barriers, formulators and cosmetic chemists can incorporate this ingredient into many stable and skin-friendly concoctions that skin care professionals can recommend for both morning and evening routines. In other words, corrective products that include bakuchiol move out of limiting evening routines and into 24/7 application potential. With the revelations of recent scientiŽ c studies, this ancient ingredient is making its way into many professional skin care formulations and is proving its powerful histological beneŽ ts. With no known skin contraindications, the only challenge in presenting bakuchiol is how your pronunciation rolls—or does not roll o‹ the tongue. Notes 1. R. K. Chaudhuri and K. Bojanowski, "Bakuchiol: A Retinol¢ Like Functional Compound Revealed by Gene Expression Profi ling and Clinically Proven to Have Anti-Aging E¥ ects," International Journal of Cosmetic Science 36, no. 3 (June 2014): 221–30, https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12117. 2. R. K. Chaudhuri and Francois Marchio, "Bakuchiol in the Management of Acne-A¥ ected Skin,"Cosmetic and Toiletries 126, no. 7 (July 2011): 502–10. 3. Osamo Ohno et al., "Inhibitory E¥ ects of Bakuchiol, Bavachin, and Isobavachalcone Isolated from Piper longum on Melanin Production in B16 Mouse Melanoma Cells," Bioscience, Biotechnology, and Biochemistry 74, no. 7 (April 2010): 1504–06, https://doi.org/10.1271/bbb.100221. INGREDIENTS Objective: Dream Skin Rest & Renew Skin Serum objectivewellness.com over dryness, so there are no sensitizing consequences Revision Skincare Retinol Complete 1.0 revisionskincare.com Paula's Choice 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment paulaschoice.com