Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1299736
30 ascp skin deep november/december 2020 NO TONER Many clients do not understand the purpose of using a toner. Toner helps remove residue from their cleanser and makeup after preliminary cleansing, and if the toner contains a humectant/hydrator (most do), toner application is the first step of hydration after cleansing. The most important function of a toner, though, is lowering the pH of the skin surface, which helps stop the action of the cleanser (which generally has a bit higher pH). Lowering the pH sets up the right pH for other products, such as an AHA serum, to work the most effectively. Most importantly, recent research indicates that keeping the skin at a lower pH helps prevent skin inflammation that can cause the formation of breakdown enzymes that destroy collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid in the skin. This is especially important in older skin. TIP: Have clients mist alcohol-free toner (great for mature skin!) on their face with an atomizer. Spraying helps cover all areas and is easier than using a cotton ball. Have the client blot off the excess with a clean towel. Make sure they are not rinsing after toning! SUPER SOAPING Using high-quality serums while washing the face with soap is almost as bad as using a good skin care program while deliberately tanning. Most clients use soap because they think they are getting cleaner because of the foam, ease of rinsing, and the feel of bubbles. The problem is that most soaps are very alkaline and leave a wax residue on the skin. Explain to your clients that they are likely neutralizing the effects of serums when they use soap for cleansing. TIP: Help clients find a gentle, light-foaming cleanser that rinses easily to substitute for soap, and remind them to use a good toner afterward. THE EYES DON'T HAVE IT Skin in the eye area is very different from other areas of the face and needs special levels of humectant and emollient. Many clients are unaware of the need for a separate eye cream and don't know how to use it correctly. Teach your client how to apply eye cream and show them how to incorporate it into their home-care regimen. TIP: Many clients worry about sensitivity of their eyes or how a cream might affect their contact lenses. Make sure you carry an ophthalmologist- tested, fragrance-free eye care product. This will help alleviate client concerns. expertadvice SKIN SOLUTIONS SNOOZING ON NIGHTLY SKIN CARE Have you ever noticed you sell a lot more daytime products than night care? Clients want to look good during the day but tend to shrug off night routines because they are tired. TIP: Teach your clients how they can simplify their night care by using easy-to-use packaging, spraying toner, etc. Another great tip is to tell the client to perform their night care early in the evening. BABY STEPS I understand the frustration of knowing that some clients go home and undo all your good work. Especially if they blame you for their poor results. Education— and a little diplomacy—is key. Keep sharing your expertise in small steps if necessary, and you'll find your clients changing their routines and discovering the skin they hoped for all along! Using high-quality serums while washing the face with soap is almost as bad as using a good skin care program while deliberately tanning.