Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1236015
32 ascp skin deep may/june 2020 product and does not over-cleanse. A cleansing wash containing ammonium lauryl sulfate could be more aggressive and more appropriate for oilier skin. Other ingredients, such as oils and fatty agents, can be added to cleansers to buffer the surfactant contact with the skin, making them less aggressive. Emulsion Cleansers Also known as cleansing milks, emulsion cleansers are nonfoaming products that are applied and massaged onto the face and neck and then physically removed by a cotton pad, sponge, or facial cloth. This removal technique is important, because emulsion cleansers do not easily rinse off the skin. They don't foam because they usually do not contain detergents. They are designed to remove makeup and are often a good choice for alipidic (oil-dry) skin. Alipidic skin is characterized by extremely small, barely visible pores. Alipidic skin does not produce enough sebum and tends to be dehydrated due to lack of sebum lubricating the skin surface. Clients with alipidic skin often complain of dryness and tightness. Facial Cleansing Oils Facial cleansing oils are a current trend. Some are actual plant oils or mixes of botanical oils. These work well for removing makeup and for cleansing dry skin. For oily and acne-prone skin, though, they can leave a residue that often has pore-clogging potential, or they simply do not remove enough excess sebum to help manage oily skin. Another trend is the use of micellar water to cleanse. Micellar water contains tiny lipid particles that help remove makeup and cleanse. Micellar water is not rinseable and must be physically removed with a soft cloth or cotton pad, similar to an emulsion cleanser. THE ESTY'S ROLE All cleansing products may contain additional ingredients to help the product perform additional functions. For example, cleansing granules such as jojoba beads or cellulose acetate particles may be added to cleansers as an exfoliant. Soothing ingredients such as aloe, allantoin, or green tea may be added to help soothe sensitive skin during the cleansing process. It is the role of the esthetician to determine the right cleanser and cleansing method for each client, and to educate the client on the appropriate technique for their individual skin. expertadvice SKIN SOLUTIONS It is a major part of the esthetician's role to carefully analyze the client's skin type and particular conditions to recommend the right product that removes the right amount of sebum and cleanse without over-stripping the skin and causing barrier function damage. Estheticians may need to carry a variety of cleansers to best match the client's skin needs and lifestyle.