ASCP Skin Deep

MAY | JUNE 2020

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find your dream career! 31 Spring Cleaning To recommend the right cleanser, you need to understand how each type works by Mark Lees, PhD Cleansing is an important first step in any skin care regimen. Even before they become your clients, most people cleanse their faces on a regular basis. But how are your clients cleaning their skin, and what are they using to clean it? Is it the appropriate product for their skin type and condition? Unfortunately, many clients are using cleansers that are too strong, not eff ective, or wrong for their skin. It is the role of the esthetician to determine the right cleanser and cleansing method for each client, and to educate the client on the appropriate technique for their individual skin. TYPES OF CLEANSERS Surfactant Cleansers Surfactant cleansers are labeled as foaming cleansers or facial washes. They can be foaming cream cleansers or cleansing gels or liquids. They are applied to wet skin and immediately start foaming due to their detergent content. Surfactants, also referred to as detergents, help remove excess sebum by reducing the surface tension of oils and debris on the skin, lifting it off the skin's surface. For this reason, surfactant cleansers are good choices for oily and combination skin. Surfactant cleansers are very popular because they foam, are easily rinsed, and are often used in the shower. Clients often love this type of cleanser because they are the easiest to use and make the client feel very clean. However, surfactant cleansers do not remove makeup as well as emulsion cleansers, and if they contain too high a concentration of surfactant for the individual skin type, they can remove too much sebum, which can make the skin dehydrated, feel tight and dry, and even disrupt barrier lipids between the cells that help the epidermis retain essential hydration. Foaming cleansers can vary greatly in the strength of their cleansing potential. The strength of the cleanser is determined by the type used and the concentration of the surfactant in the formula. A foaming cleanser that contains a small amount of decyl glucoside (an ultra-gentle surfactant) makes a good choice for dry or sensitive skin because it is not a heavy foaming expertadvice SKIN SOLUTIONS

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