ASCP Skin Deep

MARCH | APRIL 2020

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32 ascp skin deep march/april 2020 SPF does not measure how much ultraviolet light is actually fi ltered, so most skin scientists do not give the SPF rating claim as much weight as broad spectrum. An SPF of at least 30 is generally accepted as good. Higher SPFs (50 and above) are available, but many scientists believe that SPFs above 50 are just marketing hype. WEARABILITY Wearability may be the most important factor to getting people to actually use sunscreen every day. A product can be broad-spectrum rated and have an SPF of 30-plus, but if it is dense and sticky, causes makeup to roll and "pill," or feels heavy or greasy, people will not wear it—at least not routinely. A sunscreen product should apply smoothly, do well under makeup, and feel good throughout the day. The easiest way to accomplish this is to fi nd a variety of moisturizers that contain sunscreen, are broad spectrum, and off er 30-plus SPF. MOISTURIZERS WITH SPF There is an old wives' tale that moisturizers should be applied separately from sunscreen. With modern technology, though, there is no reason that two products need to be used. The most important feature of any day cream should be broad-spectrum sunscreen protection. The weight of the moisturizer with SPF is very important. Specifi c skin types have diff erent requirements. Dry, mature skin needs a product a bit heavier in emollient, perhaps infused with ceramides to support barrier function of older skin. Dry skin also needs a good fi nish that is compatible with makeup foundation. Oily skin needs a matte-fi nish sunscreen and less emollient. It should also be lightweight in feel and free of comedogenic (pore- clogging) oils and fats. Combination skin needs something in between. OTHER CONSIDERATIONS Clients with redness-prone or sensitive skin create another specifi c need. Sensitive skin tends to work well with sunscreens that contain physical sunscreen ingredients like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. These agents "bounce" the rays off the skin rather than absorbing the rays, resulting in less heat on the skin, which helps avoid infl ammation. Sunscreens developed specifi cally for sensitive skin can also contain redness-reducing ingredients like green tea or licorice extracts, helping to squelch reactivity. Clients who work outside need sunscreen products that are water resistant and durable. Water-resistant sunscreens must pass a test to determine how long they stay on and functional in water. Water resistance is determined in 40- and 80-minute tests. This will be refl ected on the label. Water-resistant sunscreens tend to be heavier in weight than daily-use sunscreen products. EDUCATION Your role as a skin care professional is also that of skin health educator. Teach your clients how to properly use and apply the right sunscreen—and emphasize the need for everyday use to prevent skin cancer and premature aging. Make sure all your sunscreen recommendations are broad spectrum— probably the most important factor when making suggestions. expertadvice SKIN SOLUTIONS

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