ASCP Skin Deep


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32 ascp skin deep november/december 2019 Let's Makeup Cosmetic guidelines for oily, dry, and aging skin by Mark Lees, PhD Can makeup affect skin conditions? The simple answer is yes! Just like any topical agent, makeup can affect the skin— not only in appearance, but also in potentially improving or worsening skin conditions. Even though makeup is mainly intended for coverage or camouflaging imperfections in coloration, today's makeup foundations often contain performance ingredients to help condition the skin as well. Sunscreen ingredients, peptides for aging skin, light reflectors to diffuse light off wrinkles, or even ingredients to absorb excess sebum (to minimize shininess) are examples of these performance ingredients. Just as there are many different types of makeup—creams, liquids, powders, and more—there are many skin types to consider when using makeup. With so many products to choose from, what are the best makeup products for oily, dry and aging, and sensitive skin types? Let's take a look. OILY SKIN Oily and acne-prone skin is the skin type that can be most negatively affected by using the wrong makeup products. Many cosmetics contain oils and fatty ingredients that might work well on dry skin, but cause pore clogging and even possible acne flares for problem skin. Oily and acne-prone skin needs makeup that covers, but is lightweight, free of oils and clogging fats, and that has a matte finish to conceal shine. It is also helpful if the makeup contains ingredients to absorb excess oil. Fat-free liquid makeup with evaporating spreading agents is excellent for this skin type. These foundations normally need to be shaken before application because they do not contain emulsifiers, since there is no oil. The pigments and coverage minerals are suspended in a mixture of glycerin and a liquid that evaporates (such as denatured alcohol) in water. The fat-free foundation must be applied on small areas at a time, as the evaporating base dries quickly. The liquid portion evaporates, leaving only the minerals and pigment without leaving any oil or emollient residue. As the skin produces sebum during the day, this type of foundation helps absorb the oiliness. This type of foundation is applied with a stippling sponge, and there is a bit of a learning curve to get the technique down, but this type of product can provide great coverage and looks great when it is blended well. Because it is fat-free, it will not contribute to pore clogging in oily and acne-prone skin. Mineral powders are also good choices for oily and acne-prone skin. Make sure the powder is blended with a noncomedogenic (non-pore-clogging) binding agent, which helps the mineral powder adhere to the skin. Mineral powders are generally safe for acne-prone skin, as long as they don't contain oils and fatty binding expertadvice SKIN SOLUTIONS

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