ASCP Skin Deep

MAY | JUNE 2019

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34 ascp skin deep may/june 2019 • All of these clearing ingredients also act as drying agents, so they must be used correctly and be coordinated with proper noncomedogenic hydrating fl uids and gentle cleansers to avoid peeling and fl aky skin. One technique is to use a light application to all clog-prone or acne areas every other night, and alternate the following night with a lightweight hydrating fl uid. This helps infuse the skin with essential hydration and helps prevent dryness and infl ammation. Raised blemishes can be treated individually with a spot blemish treatment. CONTINUATION IS KEY It is important to continue using these clearing agents even after the skin has cleared. Remember, acne-prone and congested skin is genetic, and cell buildup will recur if treatment is stopped. This is one of the biggest reasons acne treatments fail: the client thinks they are "cured" and stop or back off of treatment. They must continue using a "follicle fl usher" to keep cell buildup from recurring. This is often a glycolic-salicylic combination gel or a mild 2.5 percent benzoyl peroxide gel. OIL CONTROL Oil control is an important factor in treating these skin conditions. Remember, oiliness (excessive sebum production) is also genetic, and there is a direct correlation between the oiliness level of the skin and the severity of the acne condition. The best way to control oiliness is the twice daily use of a gentle foaming wash specifi cally designed for acne-prone skin. Some of these cleansers may also contain benzoyl peroxide, or salicylic or mandelic acid. These cleansers help kill bacteria while also cleansing the skin of excess sebum. BE OIL-FREE Use oil-free everything! Many moisturizing products and makeup products are not designed for acne-prone skin. Products designed for dry skin often contain fatty agents that may be helpful for mature skin that does not produce enough sebum, but not for oily, clog-prone skin. Look for the terms dermatologist-tested and noncomedogenic. These terms mean the product has been designed and tested for oily and acne-prone skin and do not contain certain fatty agents that might be helpful for dry skin, but make clog-prone skin worse. Make sure you educate your clients about using noncomedogenic products and make sure you have some tested products available for them to buy and use. COSMETIC CONSCIOUS Cosmetics should also be noncomedogenic. Using great skin care products followed by clogging makeup will ruin the program. Check your labels to make sure the makeup (including mineral powders) is dermatologist-tested and noncomedogenic. IN THE TREATMENT ROOM Desincrustation/extraction facial treatments alternated with mild salicylic acid peels can also be helpful in accelerating skin clearance. These should be performed either weekly or biweekly until the skin is clear, and then once a month to maintain clear skin. CLIENT EDUCATION Educating your client is of utmost importance! Make sure they understand the home-care protocol, the need for the right nonclogging products, including makeup, and the need for continual care even after clearance is achieved. expertadvice SKIN SOLUTIONS

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