Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1078197
ascp now offers advanced modality insurance! ascpskincare.com/ami 29 Male hormones (androgens) in the bloodstream trigger sebum production. When male hormones in the bloodstream come in contact with the lobes of a sebaceous gland, the hormones "dock" in a receptor site within the sebaceous cells. This switches on the sebaceous production and sebum flows into the follicle and onto the skin surface where it mixes with the cell buildup and begins clogging the follicle. The sebum solidifies and forms an impaction. 4. There are a number of different bacteria that naturally live in the skin follicle. One of these is Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes). P. acnes bacteria are anaerobic, which means they cannot survive in the presence of oxygen. The bacteria constantly divide to produce new bacteria, but P. acnes bacteria are constantly being killed off by oxygen flowing in and out of the follicle. When the follicle becomes blocked because of an impaction of dead cell buildup and solidified sebum, the follicle does not aerate as it normally does. This allows the P. acnes bacteria to increase in numbers. P. acnes bacteria only eat one food: sebum. As they digest the sebum, fatty acids are produced from the sebaceous remains, and these acids cause inflammation in the follicle, which causes irritation of the follicle walls. This inflammation further impedes the follicle aeration, which perpetuates the situation. 5. There are two types of comedones. Noninflammatory comedones are either open comedones (typical blackheads) or closed comedones, which appear as small white bumps just under the skin surface. Open comedones are so called because the follicle opening (ostium) is open. Closed comedones do have an ostium as well, but the opening is extremely small next to an open comedo. This tiny opening, along with the follicle stuffed with cell buildup and solidified sebum, further block the follicle aeration. When the follicle becomes more and more filled with the impacted buildup and sebum and pressure from inflammation from fatty acids, the follicle wall ruptures from the pressure. The immune system then sends white blood cells to the ruptured follicle and blood floods the follicle so the white blood cells can attack the bacteria and "save" the follicle. The lesion becomes red from the blood presence and the inflammation, and becomes an acne papule. 6. Any sort of inflammation can contribute to acne flares in an acne-prone client. Overly stimulating treatments, peeling agents that are too strong or used too frequently, excessive extraction, fragrances in products, or stimulating products or treatments can cause inflammation in the follicles. When the follicles are inflamed, the follicle walls swell and obstruct the follicle aeration that keeps acne bacteria in check. The obstruction causes an acnegenic reaction or flare. Acnegenic flares are often seen when new home care products are introduced. This may indicate that the product is too rich, too stimulating, or generally inflammatory to sensitive skin. Stay tuned! In next issue's column, we will discuss time-tested techniques to help clear and manage clog-prone and acne-prone skin conditions.