ASCP Skin Deep

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2018

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34 november/december 2018 other areas of the body, they are more prone to dryness. In fact, the palms of hands have no sebaceous glands at all. Therefore, a good hand cream needs to be emollient-laden with moisture-guarding agents such as petrolatum or shea butter, natural oils such as sunfl ower or rapeseed, and silicones such as dimethicone that help stop transepidermal water loss that causes dehydration. The cream also needs "water magnet" humectants such as glycerin or sorbitol that help attract and bind water to the skin. A cream like this will be a bit heavier than a facial cream. Lightweight hand lotions, in general, are not as eff ective or as therapeutic as heavier ones. 3. Ceramides are another vital ingredient to restore barrier function to the hand skin. They help on many levels, as repair of the barrier function enables the retention of moisture within the skin and between the skin cells. It also helps esthetically with wrinkles, roughness, and crepiness. 4. The hand cream type described above needs to be applied regularly— several times a day—to expertadvice SKIN SOLUTIONS show results. Have creams available for your clients in small sizes that can easily fi t in a purse or travel bag. 5. Overnight use of a good hand cream and wearing soft cotton gloves increases absorption and speeds up surface skin recovery. 6. A good water-resistant sunscreen should be applied every morning. Facial sunscreens are fi ne to use on the hands, but most are not very water resistant. If the client spends a lot of time outdoors, the sunscreen should be reapplied every 2 hours. 7. Nightly use of a cream or lotion containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)—such as glycolic or lactic acid—helps remove dead, dried cells and helps improve cell renewal. Better cell renewal enhances the skin's ability to make its own intercellular lipids, naturally improving barrier function and the ability of skin to retain moisture. Sunscreen is a must-do with AHAs, as the treated surface skin can be more susceptible to sunburn. SALON CARE In-spa treatments for the hands are easy add-ons to facials. Including a hand moisture treatment with a facial or spa day using electric warming mitts only takes a few minutes and is a nice and appreciated amenity. Paraffi n hand dips after applying a rich hand cream will help with product penetration and more eff ective softening. Many salons also off er AHA peels for the hands. These gentler peels need to be performed in a twice-a-week series for best results. The most important thing to remember with hand care is that it must be consistent to achieve visible and sustainable results.

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