ASCP Skin Deep


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32 september/october 2018 • Green tea extract, containing strong antioxidants called polyphenols • Grape-seed extract • Licorice extract, which includes derived specifi c ingredients dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and ultra-potent antioxidant lichochalcone —these extracts are used for reducing redness and soothing, as well as their antioxidant properties • Superoxide dismutase, an enyzme that works to stop oxygen destabilization • Resveratrol, from grapes and the Japanese knotweed plant, is an ultra-strong antioxidant that also has restimulating eff ects for mature skin REPAIR INGREDIENTS FOR AGING AND SUN- DAMAGED SKIN The daily use of antioxidants and broad- spectrum sunscreen are the foundation of preventing all forms of premature skin aging. For skin that is already damaged, we now have the ability to signifi cantly improve the appearance of aging skin. By combining several ingredient types and concepts, we can make real visible changes. Barrier repair and moisture retention Skin with both intrinsic and extrinsic aging suff ers from lack of moisture. Healthy skin expertadvice SKIN SOLUTIONS has naturally occurring lipids between the epidermal cells that are there to lock in plumping moisture and act as a barrier against irritants penetrating the skin. It resembles a brick wall, where the cells are the bricks and the lipid complex is the mortar. As skin gets older, the cell renewal cycle slows. It is this cycle that is responsible for producing these lipids. When these lipids are missing, skin moisture drops signifi cantly, "defl ating" the appearance of the skin, making wrinkles and lack of fi rmness look much worse. Missing lipids also contribute signifi cantly to increased skin sensitivity and redness tendencies. Ceramides are lipid- complex ingredients that can "patch the mortar" and boost moisture levels, "re- infl ating" the skin surface. This process improves the look of aging skin. For your aging clients, look for retail products containing ceramides. Daily use of sunscreens, moisturizers, serums, eye creams, masks, and other products containing ceramides can make a huge diff erence. Exfoliation and cell renewal Chemical exfoliation using alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic, mandelic, etc.) removes dead cells and resurfaces the outside layer of the skin. Dull and stained cells are removed, making the skin look brighter with a more even tone. Wrinkle depth is reduced, especially if also used with ceramides. This can be accomplished with alpha hydroxy acids at 8–10 percent in a serum form. The client applies the serum daily, or twice daily, depending on skin sensitivity. Alpha hydroxy acids also stimulate cell renewal, accelerating cell turnover, which also increases the production of natural intercellular lipids, dramatically boosting moisture levels. "Remodeling" sun damage Peptides, collagen stimulants, resveratrol, and retinoids are all ingredients that help stimulate the skin in various ways. They are some of the most powerful ingredients with the most dramatic results. All of these ingredients have diff erent mechanisms of action, but all have substantial appearance eff ects on fi rmness, skin tone evenness, and surface texture. ALL TOGETHER NOW! By combining these amazing ingredients in a program used at home each and every day, you can help your client make signifi cant changes to the appearance of sun-damaged skin. For skin that is already damaged, we now have the ability to significantly improve the appearance of aging skin.

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